One person using them can expect to produce 1-2 primers per minute. While the above methods are perfectly usable, they take considerable time. When the ammunition bubble deflates again (it may be years in the future), remember to stock up. That method is temporarily unavailable at a reasonable cost to most. The best method is to stock up on components when they are cheap and readily available. Marshall notes homemade primers only approach commercial products in efficacy and reliability. The history of primers included in the manual and the requirements for good priming compounds are worth reading in themselves. In the latest update to Marshall’s manual, he details 10 different methods and priming mixtures, ranging from moderately simple to moderately difficult.Īll of the methods described by Marshall Thompson contain detailed instructions on how to complete each step. Most of them require a bit of wet chemistry to make the precursor chemicals for the priming mix. Marshall describes in detail the methods and chemistry to make more sophisticated, non-corrosive primers. If the chemicals cannot be found, they can be made at home with simple chemistry. Link to video to mix H48 priming compound. You are SPOT ON CORRECT to ask the question you asked! You will remain spot on correct when you work up your loads within the confines of your published and industry verified load data.Marshall has made how-to videos on the processes. It's why they exist, why they publish what they publish, and arguably.why they don't publish what they don't publish in terms of load combinations. And I will further suggest to you that nobody else knows for sure either, this side of a ballistics lab. WHAT exactly would happen? WHAT exactly might change? WILL it be ok? Well, I would suggest to you that I don't know for sure. Here's the deal when you start deviating from published load data. Depends largely on what you're looking to load. Unique would indeed be a good find as others have mentioned, because it is extremely versatile across a number of cartridges. 38 Special amongst others if versatility is a concern or a bonus. 357, as well as other common pistol calibers that you may be shooting or perhaps will be shooting going forward like 9mm Luger. There are many good powder options available that are suitable for. Save the 296 for your full house loads with magnum primers where specified by your load manual. To answer your question, your best option IMO is to buy a pound of a powder other than H110 or 296. What matters is that you leave those mistakes on the bench, rather than taking them to the range. There are NO stupid questions! In fact, you asked a GREAT question! And be aware that you'll make some mistakes. It's really impressive from my lever action carbine, velocities grain for grain are nipping at the heels of 30-30 and 7.62X39, better than 2200fps from max 125gr loads, from my 4"686 are about 25% less with a ginormous and loud fireball. I usually use once fired cases, and a good heavy crimp. H110 loads are pretty much full power for the caliber, it beats guns, brass, and the shooter, so be sure to check everything, and measure carefully. Best thing to do is load with another powder, then reload with H110 and magnums later on. Most data for H110/W296 call for magnums, and that is what should be used unless a recipe calls for standard specifically, Hornady calls for a Win SPM, if you use a lot of their bullets it's a good manual to have. The need for magnums depends on powder, not neccesarily caliber. The Lee manual and Hodgdon website don't list specific primers in their data, most other sources do, and rightly so as they can change pressure and consistency quite a bit.
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